Helmet Mirrors

The greatest hazard of cycling on rural roads is dangerous overtaking by motor vehicles. This can be passing too close or passing going into a blind bend or hilltop. The closest I came to being killed on a bicycle was on a straight stretch of road about two years. A jeep driver passed me much too close, but the real danger came from a trailer that was wider than jeep. I still clearly remember looking down and seeing the trailer mudguard a few inches from my foot.

Mirror on my Oakland

After this incident I decided to get a mirror. The first one I tried was a handlebar mounted mirror. But there were several problems with this. It was subject to a lot of vibration and didn’t give a really clear view. It was a long way from my middle aged eyes and even under the most favorable circumstances gave a poor view of the road behind. It constantly came loose and needed repeated tightening. It was always subject to the risk of being broken if the bike fell over. And as my fleet of bikes grew it was not convenient to move it between bikes.

After a few months I gave up on it and replaced it with a Zefal Z-Eye Mirror, which attached to my helmet. Since that day I have never rode without it. The mirror attaches to the helmet with a sticky pad and velcro. I had doubts that the pad and velcro attachment would last but after over two years it is still working well.

A helmet mounted mirror solves all the problems of a bike mounted mirror. While still subject to vibration it is a lot less. One helmet mirror will cover a fleet of bikes. Being much closer the the eye it gives a much better view of the road behind, important if like me your sight is not as good as it once was. It will not be damaged if a parked bike falls over.

The Blackburn Helmet Mirror

A helmet mirror has several clear advantages over one mounted on a bike. It allows you to take a quick glance at the road behind without loosing focus on the road ahead, you don’t have to look down as with a bike mounted mirror. But perhaps the greatest advantage it that with a little head movement it is possible to scan the whole road behind. This is very useful as it allows you to keep an eye on a car in the critical few meters as it finally comes up alongside.

I am agnostic on the great helmet debate, having never fallen off a bike since I was small child. I feel just as happy riding without a helmet, but since I got a helmet mirror, I always wear a helmet but as a platform to mount a mirror on.

I got my helmet mirror from Wiggle, it is still available from them for 14.46 euros but has to be ordered, which takes two or three weeks. I’ve just ordered a Blackburn helmet mirror from Rose Bikes in Germany, so as to have a spare, they have them in stock and they sell for 9,95 euros.

Zefal Z-Eye Mirror from Wiggle


Blackburn Helmet Mirror from Rose Bikes 

Cycling and Power Consumption

I was thinking in recent days about the power consumption involved in cycling. I knew from experience that speed costs energy, but how much I didn't know. I went looking for an online cycling calculator and found http://bikecalculator.com/. I inputted my weight 154 pounds and my loaded touring bike (bike and cargo) at 55 pounds and started to play around with different speeds, on level ground. As I suspected power consumption increased rapidly with speed.

A brisk walking speed is about 4 mph, at this speed it takes about 10 watts to keep me and my touring bicycle moving. At six mph energy consumption jumps to 18 watts. Eight mph needs 35 watts. Ten mph will burn 43 watts and after this power consumption increases rapidly. Twelve mph will need 64 watts. At fourteen mph it takes 90 watts. Sixteen mph needs 124 watts and twenty mph requires 217 watts.

It takes five times more energy to move a bike at 20 mph than it does at 10 mph. The modest jump in speed from 10 mph to 14 mph doubles the energy used.

When I go cycle touring my aim is to maintain an average speed of around 10 mph, as I can keep going for many hours at this speed. The longest I've yet cycled is 146 miles in a day, to do this I spent nearly 15 hours out of 18 on the bike. At the end I was mildly tired rather than exhausted.

I also tested out the impact of weight on power consumption. My Carrera TDF road bike weighs 26 pounds, to move it at 10 mph takes 40 watts, a saving of only three watts over a 55 pound loaded touring bike. At 20 mph it takes 210 watts to move the road bike a saving of only 7 watts on the touring bike. On flat ground there is very little difference in the energy needed to move a loaded touring bike and a light road bike.

Even a very heavily loaded touring bike will not take much more energy than a light road bike. The heaviest weight I ever carried (bike and cargo) is 79 pounds, to move this at 10 mph only needs an extra 6 watts over a light road bike.

Weight does however tell when climbing hills. Climbing a 5 % gradient at 4 mph on touring bike will burn 109 watts. The same slope can be climbed at the same speed on a road bike for 84 watts.

The question of power consumption is a bit more complex than this, it fails to take account of things like rolling resistance of different tyres, and how well serviced a bike is. But it is a good rough guide to the kind of power consumption involved in cycling.

The Raleigh Oakland Reviewed Part Six

It's two years this month since I bought my Raleigh Oakland. Since then I've done just over 15000 km on it and it still remains my bike of choice for everyday riding. I've kept it properly serviced and it rides even better today than it did the first day I rode it.

A lot of the components have been changed in the last two years, but the shifters, derailleurs, brake levers and brakes have lasted and still show no signs of wearing out. The frame, forks, headset, stem, handlebars, grips chainguard, saddle, seatpost and front mudguard have all lasted, are still in excellent shape and all look like they will give many more years of service.

The chainwheels, rear sprockets, rims, pedals, rear hub and rims have been replaced once but the replacements are still in good order and will all give plenty more service. The rear mudguard has also been replaced once. I've lost count of the number of chains and brake blocks I've gone through. The brake and gear cables have been replaced several times. The bike is on its second set of tyres.

You can still buy an Oakland online in Ireland from Eurocycles.com for € 309.99. or in the UK from Rutland Cycling for £174.99. Although a lot of the bigger retailers like Evans Cycles no longer sell it. It has also disappeared  from the Raleigh.co.uk website, so perhaps it is no longer in production. But there will be lots of them on the second hand market for years.

The next upgrade, Shimano hub gears

When I first reviewed the Oakland in September 2011 I had only done 3000 km and I wrote "You could spend a lot more on a hybrid bike but I doubt you will beat the Oakland on value for money". Almost two years later with 15000 km done I still stand over that statement. Back then it could be bought from Eurocycles for only € 230 but even at the current price of € 309.99 this bike remains great value.

The original wheels were machine built, so if you buy an Oakland get the wheels trued. The chainwheels are poor quality but will give long service if the gear changes are done gently and when they wear out replace them with good quality chainwheels. Regularly change the chain and the brakeblocks.

I'm planning a major upgrade to my Oakland, in the near future. I'm saving for a SHIMANO Nexus 8 speed gearbox hub with back pedal brakes. This currently costs € 154 from www.rosebikes.com in Germany. I will need to widen the rear dropouts by 5 mm to take this new hub, but with the Oaklands steel frame this will not be a problem, all that's needed is a six foot long piece of 3 x 2 timber and a stool. I will then change the front triple chainwheels for a single and enclose the chain in a chain case. When I complete this upgrade I will have turned my Oakland into a low maintenance utility bicycle, with the chain and gears enclosed and protected from rain and grit and no more brake wear on my rear rim.

Raleigh Oakland Reviewed Part One
Raleigh Oakland Reviewed Part Two
Raleigh Oakland Reviewed Part Three
Raleigh Oakland Reviewed Part Four
Raleigh Oakland Reviewed Part Five


Available Online from

Eurocycles
Rutland Cycling

SHIMANO Nexus gearbox hub Inter 8 SG-8C31

The Raleigh Royal Reviewed Part Three

Last week I pulled the Raleigh Royal out of its winter storage and serviced it in preparation for the 2013 touring season. With almost 2000 miles done since I bought it last year, there was quite a bit of work required.

Mavic A119 700c Rim

 The biggest job was replacing the rims. I had not changed the brake pads since I got the bike and this was a serious mistake. The wear indicator grooves had vanished. The wheels were rebuilt with two A119 Mavic rims and the old hubs and spokes.

Clarks 60mm cantilever post type brake pads were used front and back. In future I will be paying much closer attention to brake pad wear. This is probably more of a factor on touring bikes, the kinetic energy of a fully loaded touring bike at high speed is much greater than a lighter bike and this is reflected in the rapid wear of the rims. Based on this experience I would probably buy a touring bike with disk brakes.

One of the pedals had developed a crack in the casing. I replaced the pedals with a set of Wellgo single cage M20 flat pedals. From the clearance section in Chain Reaction Cycles for the knock down price of €11.12. Very good value, but now sold out.

The Royal was fitted with an eight speed cassette, which had a 28 tooth low gear. I replaced this with a Shimano Acera HG41 8 Speed MTB cassette, with a 32 tooth low gear, just a little lower for getting up the steeper hills.

The chain was overdue a change. The new chain is a Shimano Altus HG40 6/7/8 speed.

The bike is now riding really well. Total cost of parts €86.63, but the bike is ready for the road. All I need now is some warm, dry weather. I have three tours planned for this summer, the west of Ireland awaits.

Raleigh Royal Reviewed Part One

Raleigh Royal Reviewed Part Two

All parts from Chain Reaction Cycles


Mavic A119 Road Rim 2013
€19.66 (RRP €22.14)

Shimano Acera HG41 8 Speed MTB Cassette 
€12.28 (RRP €20.90)

Clarks 60mm Cantilever Post Type Brake Pads
€3.12 (RRP €4.90)

Shimano Altus HG40 6/7/8 Speed Chain
€8.59 (RRP €12.28)

The Yuba Mundo Reviewed

After almost two months and 500 miles I still love my Yuba Mundo Cargo bike. I use it for my bike mechanic business, and can carry all my tools and spare parts. When fully loaded the total weight of the mobile bicycle workshop, including the container is about 30 kg. I have ridden up to 40 miles a day with this load, in very hilly country and I can ride up even the steepest hill.

My mobile bicycle repair workshop

The bike weights about 21 kg, so with 30 kg of cargo, this tips the scales at 51 kg. The bike handles very well with this load. It is stable at a speed of 4 mph hour climbing steep hills and equally stable at 34 mph coming down them.

I have a lot of experience with heavily loaded touring bikes, but the Yuba Mundo when loaded is much more stable and handles much better than a heavily loaded touring bike. The Yuba can carry a heavy load on the back without affecting the steering, once most of the weight is stowed forward of the rear axle. On a fully loaded touring bike some of the weight has to be carried on the front forks to balance the bike, this makes the steering and handling heavier. No such problem with the Yuba.

Two bicycles for delivery

Unloaded the Yuba is not fast, the heavy frame, 26 inch wheels and 1.75 tyres make it a poor choice for normal utility cycling, unless you need to carry cargo, a hybrid bike would be a better choice for commuting. But if you need to carry cargo the Yuba is an excellent choice.

I’m very happy with the gear ratios I chose, the biggest back sprocket has 28 teeth and the smallest front chainwheel has 22 teeth. This gives a very low, low gear which I need for hauling big loads up hills. If you live in flat country you will not need such a low gear.

I am delighted with this bike, I bought it instead of a van for my bike repair business. It is more than up to the job and I have no regrets on choosing a cargo bike instead of a van.

Yuba Mundo Cargo Bike Build Part One
Yuba Mundo Cargo Bike Build Part Two

Rebuilding a Ten Year Old Bicycle

I’ve just finished rebuilding a ten year old bicycle for a friend. A steel framed "Goldrush Prairie" it was used for several years for a short daily commute, back in the days of the Celtic Tiger. It has been laid up in a shed for several years. A typical low cost bike of the period, it has a six speed freewheel (with a big gear of 28 teeth), three front chainwheels, 26 inch wheels and off road tyres. Like most six speeds of the period it has 126mm rear dropouts (modern dropouts are usually 130mm).

The Goldrush Prairie

The rear hub and the front rim were badly worn, and many of the spokes were rusted. The back wheel was rebuilt with a Shimano RSX A410 hub (an old style 126 mm hub), it came from the clearance section of Chain Reaction Cycles at the excellent price of 8.88 euro. The wheel was completed with a Sun Ditch Witch 26” rim, and 36 DT Swiss Champion PG black spokes (18 262mm and 18 264mm), also from Chain Reaction. The old front hub and back rim were combined with 36 264 mm spokes to build a new front wheel.

The wheels were shod with a pair of Michelin City MTB road tyres. These are a really ground utility tyre, with maximum inflation of 85 psi, they are a good rolling tyre when fully inflated.

The Rebuilt Back Wheel

The Shimano RSX A410 rear hub was fitted with a SRAM PG730 7 speed MTB cassette. The old six speed derailleur (a rear hanger model) was replaced by a Shimano 6/7 speed TX35 direct fit. A rear derailleur adapter was needed to mount the direct fit derailleur. This lowered it by 10mm and created sufficient clearance between the derailleur and the biggest 32 tooth back gear. The old six speed Microshift shifter is gone, replaced by a SRAM MRX 7 speed twist shifter.

The old style adjustable bottom bracket was replaced with a 68mm x 118mm semi sealed unit. New back brake callipers and new front brake pads were fitted. All cabling was replaced, as were all wheel bearings.

The cranks and chainwheels on the bike had been changed several years earlier and were fine. The headset was solid and working fine so it was not stripped.

The Shimano Rear Derailleur Adapter

It took 150 euros of parts to restore the bike. Most parts were bought online at discount rates, if they were bought in local stores like Halfords, they would have cost about 250 euros. Halfords will sell you a bike for that kind of money but it will have machine built wheels, old style bottom bracket and freewheel, cheaper tyres and poorer components. And it will ride poorly. The restored bike has a good steel frame, hand built wheels, quality tyres and a significant transmission upgrade. It rides really well. A new bike of similar spec would cost around 500 euros.

With regular care and maintenance  and a regular change of drive chain this ten year old Goldrush Prairie should be good for 10,000 km before it needs serious work again. Many old steel bikes have good frames with many potential kms of riding still in them, they are laid up in millions of sheds and garages all over the world. For about 150 euros and a days work they can be rebuilt into first class utility and commuter bicycles.

The Shimano RSX A410 rear hub

Shimano RSX A410 Rear Hub

SRAM PG730 7 Speed MTB Cassette

Sun Ditch Witch Rim

Michelin City MTB Road Tyre

SRAM MRX Twist Shifter

Shimano Rear Derailleur Adaptor

Shimano 6/7 Speed Rear Derrailleur TX35 Direct Fit

Clarks V-Brake Caliper

Yuba Mundo Cargo Bike Build Part Two

Since posting the first installment of the Yuba Mundo build in December, its taken two months to complete the build. The Yuba Mundo is ready for the road.

Ready for the road

In December it was fitted with a 122 mm bottom bracket but this turned out to be incompatible with the Suntour Duro T324-P8 cranks and chainwheels. It was replaced with a 113 mm bracket, stripped from another bike. The Shimano FD-C050 front derailleur was also incompatible with the Suntour Duro, and was replaced with a Shimano FD-C051 derailleur.

The Yuba Mundo stand from Yubastore Europe in Germany cost almost 100 euros. It's a solid, wide stand and essential when the bike is heavily loaded.

The back wheel was fitted with Clarks CMD-8 mechanical disc brakes. After a little fiddling they were easily installed and adjusted and are working well.

Clarkes Disc Brake

The biggest problem of the build was the SKS Blumels MTB mudguards (fenders), from Chain Reaction Cycles. I could find no provision on the Mundo frame to attach the back mudguard stays. In the end the stays were removed and the rear mudguard held in place with wire. Not very elegant looking but quite effective.

On the front wheel the bracket for the front disc brake obstructed the mudguard stays. The stays had to be bent around the brake bracket. I bought disc brakes for the front but haven't figured out how to fit both disc brakes and mudguards at the same time.

The Yuba Stand

The other big fault is that the frames paint work is poor. It's about the worst finish I’ve ever come across on a frame. The paintwork strips very easily.

I spent extra money on tyres and the crankset, so the bike has a slightly higher spec than one bought fully built. The bike is now ready for the road and the total cost of the build is about 1300 euros, about the same as buying it fully built. It took many hours of labour but was a valuable learning experience.

Now for the road testing.

Yuba Mundo Cargo Bike Build Part One

Yuba Stand from the Yuba Eurostore
79,90 + shipping

Shimano FD-C051 Dual-Pull Top Swing Multi-Fit Front Derailleur from Halfords
€12.99

Clarks CMD-8 Mechanical Disc Brake from Chain Reaction Cycles
€22.90

SKS Blumels MTB Mudguards Set from Chain Reaction Cycles
€20.91

Features of a Good Utility Bike

I own four bikes, a road bike, a touring bike, a cargo bike and a hybrid bike. My hybrid a Raleigh Oakland was the cheapest bike I bought, but it is the one I use most for everyday cycling because it has all the features I need for utility cycling. I use the road bike for sportives, the touring bike for touring and the cargo bike for work, for everything else, like going to the shop, the pub or a party I use the hybrid.

My Raleigh Oakland

If you want a bike to go shopping, collect a child from school or cycle a short journey to work, then you want a good utility bike, not a sporty road bike. In the modern world that usually means a hybrid bike. So what are the features to look for on a good utility bike ?

Cost
There is no need to spend a lot of money to buy a good utility bike. Around 300 euros will buy a good hybrid bike. Racing and mountain biking are much more demanding on components than utility cycling, a 300 euro bike is not good enough for that kind of cycling, but it's fine for less demanding utility cycling.

Anything less than 300 euros will be built with poor components and poor quality steel. In the medium term a really cheap bike will prove a very poor investment.

Frame
The most important part of any bike is the frame. I like a steel frame, which is usually about 4 or 5 kg heavier than an aluminum frame. But a steel frame can be welded if broken and straightened if bent. Steel also flexes more than aluminum and is better at absorbing vibrations. A good steel frame will be long lasting if kept out of the rain and even when it does fail it will do so gradually, rather than suddenly and catastrophically.

Look for a frame with a relaxed geometry, in other words that the head and seat tube are not close to vertical like on a racing bike, but have a more raked angle. This will give a longer wheel base, a more comfortable ride and a more relaxed steering. Don’t get too hung up on this as most hybrid bikes will have a relaxed geometry.

Look for a bike with handbars at the same height or higher than the saddle. This will give a much more comfortable upright riding position.

Once you have a good frame it is always possible to buy better components in the future. I have done 13000 km on my hybrid bike and it still has the original brake and gear components and they show no sign of wearing out.

Pedals

Platform Pedal

The pedals should be usable while wearing ordinary footwear. The rubber or hard plastic platform pedals found on cheap adult and childrens bikes will do fine. Make sure to wear footwear with good grips on the soles to avoid your foot slipping off the pedals. Avoid any kind of clip in pedals that need special cycling shoes.

Chainguard
If your going to cycle in ordinary clothes a chainguard is a must. It protects your clothes from rubbing on the chain and getting dirty. If you buy a bike with hub gears get a chainguard that totally enclosed the chain, this will keep it free from grit, greatly extend its life and cut down on maintenance.

Flat Handlebars
I would not cycle a long journey on a bicycle with flat handlebars, I would want drop handlebars like on a racing bike. But for a utility bike flat handlebars are much better, they require less bike handing skills than drop handlebars and work much better with a small bag of shopping hanging on them.

Gears
The number of gears is dictated by the terrain and the amount of cargo to be carried. In a flat place, with a little cargo a single speed bike will do. In a hilly place and with lots of cargo you need 18 or 21 gears.

If your can get by with 3, 5 or 8 gears a hub gear system is best. In a hub gear all the working parts are enclosed inside a shell, keeping them free from dirt and grit. Hub gear system are easier to maintain than the more common derailleur in which all the gears are exposed, but they are more complicated and costly, and servicing them is a skilled mechanics job.

Carrier (Rack)

Pannier Bag

A rear and/or front carrier is an essential feature of a good utility bicycle. Without it you have to carry cargo in a back pack, resulting in a very high centre of gravity and a lot of wobbling and control issues. If your cargo carrying needs are simple a basic carrier will suffice, but if you carry bigger loads you need a good set of pannier bags on the carrier, which will give a lower centre of gravity.

Mud Guards (Fenders)
If you ride in ordinary clothes on wet roads mudguards are essential. They stop the spray from the wheels ending up all over you and your bike.

Stand
A solid stand is an indispensable feature on a utility bike. The best kind are the two legged and big enough to  load and unload a bike without it falling over.

Tyres
A good utility bike has medium width tyres, not narrow like a racing bike or very wide and heavily threaded like a mountain bike. Over the years I have come to like a 700 x 35 tyre on my hybrid bike. Big enough to absorb a good deal of the shock from rough roads and carry a heavy load. For convenience sake it’s best to ride on a puncture resistant tyre, not cheap but well worth the extra cost.

Lights

60 Lux Dynamo Light

If you ride in urban areas weak battery powered front and back lights will do fine. If you ride on unlit rural roads get a powerful front light, at least 60 Lux. Ideally get a dynamo light and a dynamo hub.

The Rise of the MAMIL

Irish Economist David McWilliams has an interesting article today about the rise of the MAMIL, the middle aged male in lycra. According to McWilliams cycling is the new golf. In the boom years golf was the favored sport of Irish middle aged men, but with the decline in the economy they are now turning to sports cycling in increasing numbers.

The article says that “cycling is the biggest sporting goods market in the world in terms of revenue, according to a survey by multinational market research company NPD Group”. With "Global sales totalled nearly €33 billion last year", increasing by 4% a year since 2009.

In 2012 global sales were 33 billion euros, with around 137 million bikes being sold last year. By 2016 bike sales in Ireland and Britain are projected to rise to €1 billion per year. The total cycling market in Ireland and Britain is currently valued at €2.2 billion, including accessories, clothing, etc.

The new golden age of the bike is dawning

Read David McWilliams Article

Philips SafeRide LED Bikelight Dynamo 60 Lux Reviewed

In an earlier post I wrote about upgrading my Raleigh Oakland’s front light from a weak battery powered light to a powerful dynamo light, a Philips SafeRide LED Bikelight Dynamo 60 Lux. What a difference this has made to my night time winter cycling.

Many of the backroads I ride on are very poorly surfaced, potholes are getting more common. With a dim light it was very hard to see potholes on a wet road at night. With this light it’s easy to see these kinds of hazards clearly and I can now ride as fast at night as I can in daylight.

But the greatest benefit of the bright light comes from dealing with cars. On rural roads motorists will not see a dim bicycle light in the distance and will leave their headlights full on. This used to leave me cycling blind until they got closer and dipped their headlights. With a bright light they see me in the distance and dip for me same as they do for a car. Last week I had the odd experience of a car driver flashing their lights at me. Presumably they wondered why I had not dipped my light.

The bright light makes oncoming motorists take more care as they approach. When driving on rural roads at night a single bright light in the distance could be a motorbike or it could be a car with only one headlight. Prudent drivers slow down in case it is a car with one light.

The other new thing that happens at night on narrow single lane roads is that many motorist will see my bright light and pull in to let me by. With the very bright light they don’t know it’s a bicycle coming.

Even at low speeds climbing steep hills the light is still bright. I have also used it on very wet nights and it still works well

If you cycle on unlit rural roads at night and currently have a weak battery powered light, upgrade it for a powerful light, if you decide to go for a dynamo light the Philips SafeRide LED Dynamo 60 won't let you down. I no longer turn off the light day or night, even in the day the bright light helps to make me more visible. I still carry a small battery powered light at night in case I need to fix a puncture or do a roadside repair.

The Philips SafeRide LED Bikelight Dynamo 60 Lux is a great light, if you ride dark rural roads at night and don't want the expense of a battery powered light. The light also has a capacitor so even when you stop it stays lit for four minutes, not much value to me, but very useful in an urban area.

Philips SafeRide LED Bikelight Dynamo 60 Lux

Utility Cycling or Sport Cycling

The main problem with seeking advise online about buying a bike, is that in the English speaking world, cycling is a subculture. One that is dominated by young males who like to race. No matter how you phrase or frame the question what bike should I buy, the answer you will get online will almost always be the same, buy a road bike. Two recent threads on Boards.ie demonstrate this point very well.

Racing on road bikes

The first titled “ladies bikes whats best”. The person who started the thread was looking for advise on a suitable “ladies bike” for their niece whom they described as “a mature woman”. Predictably by post four in the thread the idea of a ladies specific bike was being knocked. On post five the inevitable “get a road bike” suggestion appeared. Post seven claimed that female specific bikes are a scam “to charge more for a lower spec”.

Another thread on the same day was titled “Starter commuter bike”. The poster was planning on buying a Carrera Subway Hybrid for their 10 k cycle to work. A very suitable and sensible choice of machine in my opinion. On this thread the third post suggested a road bike. Bizarrely the thread then went off topic with an odd discussion about how often cycling shorts should be washed.

Not racing on a roadster

There is an old saying “to someone who only has a hammer everything looks like a nail”. To the young (and perhaps middle aged) men who frequent places like the cycling section of Boards.ie a road bike looks like the answer to every question. But a road bike is a sporty racing machine, and for many people with utilitarian needs it is not a suitable solution.

If you want to know what a utilitarian cycling culture looks like try Amsterdam or Copenhagen. Ordinary people, in ordinary clothes, cycling roadsters, hybrids and ladies bikes. If your cycling needs are utilitarian, not sporty, don’t post a question online looking for advise about what bike to buy.

The two threads on Boards.ie


ladies bikes whats best

Starter commuter bike

Images from Wikipedia